Rushing Toward the End/Full Stop.

The past week has been quite busy, with things at the clinic really coming together for the VCT. Also, Elizabeth is developing a 5 year plan so that we know where we're going. The idea is that we eventually would like to serve as a Comprehensive Care Center where we can offer home-based care and anti-retrovirals, as well as extended counseling for people who are HIV positive.

All of the work is basically done. We have all the materials for the finishing touches, and we're meeting with Reuben to work on setting up a visit by the District Health group that will do a final inspection and let us know how to go about securing the final resources we need to open, which will hopefully come in the next few weeks. The whole clinic looks so nice since we 'renovated' it! The next post I'll add some pictures of what's finished and how things have changed since the first pictures that I added of the VCT center and clinic as a whole.

Notes on living at the Lubanga farm and Bungoma Town:
Bathing-
Get a plastic bucket and a pitcher, go to the outdoor kitchen [filled with smoke, a coal fire and a jicho with a large pot on top, hard to tell how clean the water looks], if you're lucky there's hot water. Otherwise just get well water. Then, go to a shower stall and that's that.

Sleeping-
While originally I was quite concerned about mosquitoes, ends up that there aren't as many as I expected. Still, use the bed net. And try not to get tangled in it. If there's a lump on top of the net when you wake up, it's the cat. It's name sounds something like "Crispy-nuts", and she's pregnant and makes weird noises so just leave her there. One of her earlier children, the tiny gray cat, may also come and stay with you.

Eating-
Breakfast is red plum Zesta, Supa loaf, chai [sweet, lots of milk], and Blue Band 'butter'. Mandazi [doughnuts!] come on Saturday mornings. On rare occasions, there are boiled eggs from the many, many hens that wander the farm. Lunch is rice, cabbage, beans, maize, sakuma wiki--in some combination. Tea is served in late afternoon. Dinner is lentils and chapati Wednesday and Sunday, sometimes spaghetti and tomato sauce with mashed potatoes, occasionally chicken [Isabelle and Neeraj killed the chickens we ate two nights ago. I took a video with Isabelle's camera]--, and ocassionaly we'll have goat or beef. Also with dinner, any of the items I mentioned for lunch. On rare occasions, we have ugali. I think I've had it served only three times on the farm while I've been here. For dessert, melon or fruit--but only two or three times a week. If you go to town, Coffee Garden has decent inexpensive lunches. Red Hat will fix a stellar buffet if you call ahead. Shariff's Center has a restaurant overlooking a park, and they serve boneless chicken curry. Khetia's and Shariff's have two locations each in Bungoma Town,--decent grocery stores. Most often, oranges and mangoes are best purchased on the street. Kisumu is the closest place to get pizza or a burger.

Shopping-
Khetia's and Shariff's have anything a really small Wal-Mart would have. The Nakumatt, in Kisumu, is much more complete as far as a 'Western' grocery is concerned. The market in Bungoma Town happens on Fridays, but there is some fraction of the outdoor market open every day, and Saturday is fairly big too. There are bookstores, 'Agro-vets', electronics stores, hardware stores, tailors, etc. lining the main street of Bungoma, as well as many banks. The only one that always accepts my ATM card is Barclay's.

Through the Lens: Zanzibar II, Sunsets

This is a shot of Mt. Kilimanjaro rising from the clouds. I have many shots of the mountain, looking so surreal!--as if it were floating on the textures of sunrise clouds. I had a 6AM flight from Zanzibar to Nairobi. I'll upload a few more of the mountain later. This capped off the trip rather nicely--iconic Tanzania, perfectly and dramatically from the sky.

I have five or six shots of the sun sequentially, sinking slowly into the clouds and glowing for hours after.

The little dark building on the right is Mercury's, named after Queen's Freddie Mercury who was born in Zanzibar. It was the perfect location for sunset dinners.

The open theater on the right was the center of the activities of the Festival of the Dhow Countries and the ZIFF. The venue is the Old Fort, built by Portugal in the 1800's. This is the view of the harbor from the top balcony of the House of Wonders, a palacial building where many of the ZIFF films were shown.

The sunset had endless variations, and was clear and distinct and always stirring--every single evening.

One of my Zanzibari friends who I met a few nights at the harbor to watch the sunset took this one. The palace of Princess Salme is in the background on the right.

Another night, another sunset; Nungwi, Zanzibar--over the Indian Ocean.

A frequent place to sit and relax by the water in Nungwi.

From the balcony at my hotel in Nungwi.

The lighthouse on the northern tip of Zanzibar as the sun was glowing low and golden.

These are a mere fraction of the photos that I took--[almost 400!]--so I'll pick through them and include others later. Much has been done on the clinic as well, enough to have a full set of photos on its own.

Through the Lens: Zanzibar Part I

Impossibly clear water in the harbor in Zanzibar.
A dhow in front of prison island, where we fed the tortoises.
You can see the star fish? There were hundreds, and all of them neon!

I have arrived safely back in Bungoma, and realized how much I missed the family and all of the other volunteers. I'm glad to be here again. Also, almost all of the painting is done in the clinic and Elizabeth (the VCT manager) will be bringing the curtains in the next day or so. Also, they opened up a segment of the fence and have redone the floor. I'm so excited--we're quite close to a final District Health inspection and then opening for testing!

I have some incredible photos from the trip that I went through last night but haven't put on my jump drive for upload to the blog yet. I took about 400 photos during my week in Zanzibar, and some from the plane from Zanzibar to Nairobi! I have some breathtaking shots of Mt. Kilimanjaro from the plane, emerging rather like a giant floating mountain on top of a sea of clouds. It's was a stirring early morning flight with the sunrise to starboard and Kilimanjaro to port; and the flight wasn't very full so you could move around a bit to get an incredible view. I can't wait to upload the photos!

ZIFF/Kenyan Homecoming

I spent the weekend in Stone Town going to the events of the Festival of the Dhow Countries, listening to Taarab music, eating ever more seafood, and watching loads of films at the Zanzibar International Film Festival.

Other highlights included making friends with a tour operator, going to his house and meeting all of his family, and moderating a debate for a class he teaches! The students are learning English, and many of them hadn't ever met a native English speaker. The students were all ages--mostly secondary school aged though--and from a moderate Muslim community. The debate was essentially "Is it a good idea to be dating someone while in secondary school?"--

I'm now back in Kisumu and greatly anticipate seeing what progress has come on the VCT center tomorrow when I get back to ICODEI/Kabula. Also, it'll be nice to see the family again, and the other volunteers.

I have loads of rather nice photos that I'll be posting soon!

SCUBA

This is in the evening, about an hour after sunset, in Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania.

This turtle is 108 years old, and has paid down to eat a leav I dropped. They moved so slowly, but you could tell when they were 'chasing' you. They squeaked when their shells moved and made weird breathy noises when they were grasping for food.

So, I've been in Nungwe on the northernmost tip of Zanzibar for the last few days. I finished my Advanced Open Water PADI SCUBA certification dives just a few hours ago--I did a dive to 100ft., drift dive, night dive, fish identification dive, and navigation dive to complete it. The reefs are quite stunning and make me feel like I'm in an eltra-panorama National Geographic photo.

Mostly I just wanted to post a bunch of pictures, but as usual the internet is slow and fickle. At least there are two!

Charlie and the Chocolate Factory

"If you want to view paradise, simply look around and view it", sung in the mellow Gene Wilder-as-Willy Wonka voice has been running through my head all morning.

Yesterday I went to the "House of Wonders" with Jessie and Nicole and learned all about the dhow, the sultans of Zanzibar, modern Zanzibar culture, etc. On our way back to the hotels, we saw the Spice Tour van that Lonely Planet recommended--so I asked if they had room, and they did. So, I went on a spice tour--Nicole and Jessie had to take the ferry back to Dar Es Salaam, so we said our goodbyes and off I went! The spices were incredible, I could write a list a mile long of all the leaves and flower, fruits and roots that we smelled and tasted.

Upon return after a spice-filled lunch, I checked into a charming hotel, with all of the amenities of Maszons where I had been staying, at less than a third of the price! Also, the furniture and decor was all very Arabic/Swahili and had so much character.

I then walked to the main local market, where I was looking for some traditional Zanzibar leather sandals, and I found a guy that was able to help me find the 'factory' that made the sandals they sold in Stone Town, but at a fraction of the price. I got two pair, and headed back to the Warere Guest House.

For dinner, I had marlin, and barracuda at the street vendors which cater to the flurry of tourists. The night before, we sampled every kind of seafood that you can imagine--so I really only went back for the favorites. Also, passion fruit Fanta--I haven't seen it in Kenya, but I've been drinking so much of it here in Zanzibar.

Today, I'm in Nungwe, where I'll be staying for a few days--it's the northernmost point of Zanzibar. I'll return to the Stone Town area Friday for the start of the film festival, and take day trips from there.

Pictures still on hold--the internet places here aren't as cooperative as those in Bungoma.

Zanzibar

So I've been in Zanzibar since yesterday afternoon, but it seems like a lot longer.

This isn't exactly a place that I can put into words. Things like "brilliant", "breathtaking", and any of a number of words that might be used to describe approximations of paradise come to mind.

I'm staying in a lovely hotel with unbelieveable wood work right in the heart of Stone Town. The narrow streets and combined East African/Arab cultures stir together blindingly--it's an assault on all senses, dripping with tropical marvelous heat, astouding views at every instant, all terrifically varied.

Today I fed hundred-year-old giant tortoises (250 kg giant), gazed into the crystal waters a color of cerulean/blue that I had never fathomed, and plucked huge neon starfish from the water off an island coast. Photos forthcoming.

The hotel I'm staying in is quite a place, ideally located (and out of my budget for more than these first two nights). I'm going to try to get a reservation somewhere else for at least tomorrow night, and I'm thinking about doing a spice tour tomorrow [while I'm still based in Stone Town/Zanzibar Town].

Nicole-a classmate two years younger from the Miami Valley School--is here; she just finished her first year at Vanderbilt, and has been near Dar Es Salaam and elsewhere in Tanzania doing medical-related work through a program she's part of. A friend of hers is also here, who has been teaching in a primary school and started a library there--Jessie.

This week, I hope to explore the other towns on the island and go to the beaches. I'm going to try to set up a SCUBA trip tomorrow for sometime this week, and then the Zanzibar International Film Festival starts on Friday. Depending on how the week goes, I may try to go to Pemba--another island to the north of Zanzibar--there are some ZIFF events that will be going on there. Otherwise, I'll just get a cheap place north of Zanzibar Town and enjoy the sights and divine snorkeling/SCUBA day trips!

I haven't heard anything from anyone at ICODEI yet--they all went to Uganda this weekend to go rafting in Jinja, and a few were staying at the farm [that had gone when I did a few weeks back]. I'll probably talk to them on Monday and see how it all went, and I can't wait to watch the video of them!